The ‘Leaning Temple of Varanasi’
BOOKMARK
At the riverfront in the holy city of Varanasi is India’s version of the world-famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. It’s the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple, one of only two leaning temples in the world, the other being the Leaning Temple of Huma in Odisha. Amazingly, the tilt of the Varanasi shrine, at 9 degrees, is 5 degrees more than the incline of the Italian wonder.
And that’s not its only astonishing feature. The temple is built right on the waterfront, at the bottom of beautiful Manikarnika Ghat, and it is partially submerged all year round. Sometimes, the waters of the Ganga rise quite high, covering a part of the shikhara or main tower.
Not surprisingly, the ‘Leaning Temple of Varanasi’ tops tourist itineraries of the city and the shrine has become iconic of the city itself. So what gives?
Everything about the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple is an enigma, which adds up to lots of myths and theories but little or no answers. According to one legend, the shrine was built by a servant of Raja Man Singh of Amer (r. 1589 – 1614), while another says it was built by a servant of Ahilya Bai Holkar (r. 1767 –1795). Still others claim the temple was constructed by the Scindia queen of Gwalior, Baiza Bai, in the 19th century.
The temple’s tilt, according to local lore, is due to a curse. According to legend, Raja Man Singh’s servant ...