Sanganer and Its Printing Legacy
BOOKMARK
When you think of Sanganeri prints, the image that comes to mind is of fresh, soft cotton fabric hand-block printed with delicate floral patterns on a mostly white or off-white base. But do you know the story behind Sanganeri prints and why they are so popular?
Sanganeri prints combine great design aesthetics— inspired by the timeless art found in the palaces of Jaipur— with a technique that is one of the most difficult in the hand printing business, all while carrying a 200-year-old legacy.
The Origins
Sanganeri prints are named after Sanganer, a small town adjoining Jaipur, which emerged as a center of hand block printing due to the rise of Jaipur.
In 1727, the region’s king, Sawai Jai Singh, decided to create a new capital, Jaipur, which would not only be a political center but also a commercial hub, home to the finest crafters from across India. He invited artisans from all over to settle here and set up karkhanas (workshops). Hand block printers came in from Gujarat and set up shop. As they prospered, they needed to increase production and moved their printing units to the outskirts of the city, to the village of Sanganer, which is located on the banks of the Banganga River. Water is essential for the dyeing and printing process.
Today, a visit to Sanganer will reveal numerous karkhanas, big and small, where artisans still follow the old techniques and traditions of hand block printing.
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Beauty & Precision
The appeal of Sanganeri prints lies in their classic designs and the breezy comfort they evoke, thanks to the cotton base they are printed on, and the fact that the base in Sanganeri prints is mostly white. This also means that the printer working with his blocks must be highly skilled. Patience and precision are essential to ensure that the print is clear and that the colors do not spread into the white background.
A visit to the Amer Fort in Jaipur will give you a glimpse into the inspiration behind the Sanganeri block prints. Enter through the main door into the private palaces of the erstwhile Maharajas, the Ganesh Pol, via the central courtyard, and you will be mesmerized by the beautiful floral paintings on the walls.
Bursts of colorful flowers with intertwining vines, vases, and bouquets stand out in vivid color. The fact that many of these frescoes still retain their color and fine lines centuries after they were painted is a testament to the talent of the artists.
Like elsewhere in India, there is a close connection between the embellishments on palaces and monuments and the designs on fabrics.
The Technique of Hand Block Printing
The process of making block-printed fabric involves several steps. First, the fabric to be printed is treated with a bleach solution. It is then boiled and washed before being left to dry. Meanwhile, blocks are chosen and dyes are prepared.
Once the fabric is dyed, it is pinned to a long table for printing, known as chhapai. Carved wooden blocks are used to print designs onto the fabric. An artisan uses a tray filled with prepared dye. Different layers of cloth—from coarse to fine—are placed over the dye tray to create various effects. The pieces of cloth act as a sieve for the colors, with each texture yielding a different print quality. The blocks are then placed on the tray to absorb the dye before being stamped onto the fabric. Sometimes, to complete a single design, multiple blocks are used, each containing a different element of the pattern.
For example, in a floral design, one block may feature the petals, another the stem, and together they complete the flower motif. The number of colors used in the design often determines the number of blocks required.
Not Just Printing
A fine hand-block printed fabric doesn’t just reflect the skill of the printer; it also showcases the talent of all the artisans involved in creating the magic. From the block maker—who carves the intricate designs onto the wooden blocks—to the dyer who mixes the colors, the printers who apply the designs, and the tailors who finish the piece, each artisan contributes to the final product.
You can shop for beautiful block-printed Sanganeri bedsheets at Peepul Tree, which are sourced directly from the famous crafters of Sanganer.
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